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I use this water with a 97% Pilsner malt and 3% acidulated malt (Sauermalz) grist and get a mash pH of about 5.3-5.4. I don't know if they are adding additional minerals when they brew their lighter beers with that water but it is very likely that they don't.
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Paulaner, for example, uses a deep well from which they get very soft (~ 2 dH / 30 ppm CaCO3 Hardness) brewing water. I have used this for one batch and despite the low calcium level did not have problems with the getting the beer to clear. and even in the mid range beers, making some adjustments other than gypsum has improved them, although not to the extent of the beers on the extremes of color.This is a very soft water option for a Munich Helles or a Pilsner. But for very light (pils, tripel) or dark (porter, stout) colored beers, the water adjustments make a big difference. I just add a bit of gypsum for really hoppy beers. I've found that for middle of the road colored beers, my water is fine. I assume the higher sulfate would actually help in the case of a tripel because the excessive dryness is one of the defining features of a good tripel. I did notice that the different Belgian city profiles were somewhat close to the Yellow profiles but the one big difference was the sulfate was quite a bit lower. The Yellow profiles should be modest semblances of those Belgian waters. To help you understand the relative levels of flavor ions (Mg, Na, SO4, and Cl), review the various Belgian water profiles that are included in Bru'n Water and you will see that some have moderate levels of those ions. I agree that either a Yellow Balanced or Yellow Malty profile should be fine for a Tripel. The modest alkalinity level is low enough to allow acid malt or lactic acid use without incurring any taste effects. The main thing to recognize is the need to neutralize the alkalinity level with some sort of acidification. I can say that Cleveland city water is pretty good for brewing so if you are hitting the correct pH for conversion then I don't know if you will notice a big difference in flavor unless you had 2 beers, one treated and one not, right next to each other or have a really good "taste memory" and can make comparisons weeks or months after you've tasted it.Īll Great Lakes water is a good starting point for brewing. Once all the numbers are plugged in you're only ever going to be changing a few fields on tab 3 and 4 for each beer.Īs to it making a difference, I can't say from experience because i started with water profiles immediately from my first all-grain brew. Brunwater is pretty easy to use once you get everything plugged in. Since you are on the same water as me you should be able to use my numbers I would think. I sent my water about a year ago to ward labs for analysis. And how exactly do you know what your water is prior to diluting? An annual water report? The thought of adding another cost for water is not appealing to me.ĭenny, does it really make that big a difference? And you need this Brunwater app to calculate it all for you.
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So you dilute your water with distilled, then individually add chemicals back to raise it to the level that is preferred to for that style. I initially went down the path of the Mash 5.1 product and it made my beers taste crappy, so abandoned the project and never went back. Apparently I missed the boat on the Brunwater thing.